My ECU has two IAT related connections: 1) IAT output - analog ground and 2) IAT input. The fuel load axis is determined by whether you are using Speed Density (MAP kPa) or Alpha-N (TPS) for your fuel load (See Engine Constants) The values in this table represent a percentage of the Required Fuel amount that will be injected when the engine is at a given speed/load point." "The fuel map is a 3D, interpolated table that uses RPM and fuel load to lookup the desired VE value. This is one of the cases where stock is gonna be better.Īs far as cleaning up after yourself I'd also just check to make sure the throttle body isn't caked in oil and that none of the vacuum lines coming off the intake manifold have been clogged.Based on the following statement buried in the documentation, it appears I have a choice: The only intake upgrade that really works is the one from flyin' miata that relocates the source of air to where the wiper motor is behind the firewall, though it seems like they don't sell that any more. It'll actually perform better than a pod filter. If you can find one for cheap, I recommend putting the stock intake back on. They're supposed to sit on top of the airbox. You can see what it's supposed to look like stock here. It looks like all the previous owner did was add a pod filter to the stock intake, which I don't recommend. The 1.6L does not have a MAF, it has an AFM (it measures the amount of air by how far the flap is pushed open). 93 and earlier have 1.6L engines with the type of airflow meter you have. The video you linked is inaccurate in that it only applies to 1994-1997 miatas. The 1.6L and 1.8L engines have different air intakes. If you dig into the old Porsche forums you'll find they've been doing this conversion for about 2 decades now. I've done a few write ups on converting from an AFM to a MAF for e30s with a 5 pin MAF from a VW 1.8L. I would only open it to inspect the carbon strip and not touch a thing because the springs in them are a royal pia and getting it clocked back is nearly impossible. If you are having issues with it, I would look into what other options are available(older Volvos came with a MAF but similar style connector). I would suggest using MAF cleaner on the temp sensor inside of it, and if you have any blowby, use it to clean that as well. I've had a few e30s and we have them as well. I don't have a Miata, but reddit suggests it to me. A MAF measures volumetric air with a more modern sensor. So what I’d like to know: is it worth a bother to try taking it apart to clean it better and use something to seal it up after? Is that even possible with this unit? Also does anyone recognize or is familiar with his part? I found it online but it was just the sensor, it didn’t have the sheet metal attached and this one looks fixed with some kind of cork gasket where it’s joined to the metal.Īir Flow Meter is a different part than a Mass Air Flow(sensor).Ī AFM has what's known as a "barn door" which relates to a pentomiter that sends signal to the ECU, it also has an air temp sensor inside. I house the thing down as best I could and let it sit a few hours, and when I put it back in my car was running much better, but still not great. I wanted to take the whole thing apart to try to clean it up but I noticed that all the screws on the bottom, as well as the part they’re fastened to, are sealed with what looks like some type hardened RTV or something. I was hoping I could clean the sensor as easily as a stock unit with some air flow sensor cleaner, but the way this thing is made, it can’t be done the same way. I flubbed up when I was cleaning and oiling my filter, it was over saturated and pulled some of the oil into the MAF sensor and started making my car run rough at low rpms. The previous owner installed an after market foam air filter and mass air flow sensor in my NA miata.
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